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Dirt Candy’s False Choice

Dirt Candy’s False Choice

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | After eating at Amanda Cohen’s expensive restaurant, Dirt Candy, I felt light, as though I had just done colonoscopy prep. If you’ve never done this, you feel like an anorexic who not only starves herself of food, but also uses laxatives for that ultimate feeling of the-light-going-through-you perfect emptiness. The feeling was […]

Farm to Sandwich

Farm to Sandwich

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | I got debauched with a piece of scrambled egg today. I didn’t expect to, but it was there, in between some ricotta and focaccia at Saltie. Some oozed out on my face ultra-creamily, and I didn’t feel disgusted, I felt exalted. I thought of my friend the poet Michael Broder’s wonderful essay in […]

Tibet Atop the Q Train

Tibet Atop the Q Train

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | The hot salad called logo-patsel was one of the brightest things I’ve ever eaten, a blisteringly spicy bowl of shredded carrots, cabbage, a little tomato, and chopped cilantro in a warm tomato-vinegar broth with lots of chilies, garlic, and ginger. The Tibetan entrée was boringly referred to as “stir-fried cabbage with carrot” […]

Singaporean For Mugs

Singaporean For Mugs

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ |  I wanted so badly to like Chomp Chomp, Simpson Wong’s new restaurant on Cornelia Street. First there was the name, which you could either love or hate. After a little while, I loved it. It was fun to talk about: “Where are we going tonight?” “We’re going to Chomp Chomp!” Chomp […]

Kensington Austrian Newcomer Rises to Not Bad   

Kensington Austrian Newcomer Rises to Not Bad   

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | When I hear a restaurant called “hot,” I usually want to turn and walk the other way. There are many terrible things about our happy-shiny new food culture, but the worst may be its lust for trendiness. So when I saw that the new Austrian restaurant near where I live in not-very-gentrified […]

Steamed, Grilled, or Raw    

Steamed, Grilled, or Raw    

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | We cracked the lobster’s claws together and shoved the meat in our mouths. There was drawn butter all over the table and my hands. My wife kept slipping me more fresh-killed meat. “You need to keep your strength up.” I pulled off one of the lobster’s legs and sucked the little hole, marveling. […]

The Real Deal from Oaxaca

The Real Deal from Oaxaca

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | Sometimes you eat something that’s blissfully unlike anything you’ve ever had before. For me, the mole blanco at La Morada in the South Bronx was one of those dishes that make you stop, get quiet, taste again, and search your senses, sniffing, almost listening for something, to comprehend the mystery. Ladled over […]

The Politics of Whole Foods    

The Politics of Whole Foods    

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | How do you live in New York City on $12 an hour or less, a typical Whole Foods wage? How can you buy organic food on even a middle class income here? How can you afford meat that doesn’t come from E. coli- laden feedlots where the animals have no room to […]

The Allure of Whole Foods   

The Allure of Whole Foods   

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | I wanted to not be moved. I wanted to have no feelings. But there, it had happened: Whole Foods Brooklyn excited me. “Take the orange juice taste test,” sang a man in the fruit and vegetables section, proffering tiny free samples of special Whole Foods orange juice. “What are the different categories?” […]

Sex and Park Slope’s New Italian    

Sex and Park Slope’s New Italian    

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | The waitress welcomed us as though she had been waiting all her life just to ply us with glasses of nerello mascalese and plates of pasta alla chitarra with tuna, chilies, and mint. That’s the kind of service I like. When you pay your hard-earned money to a restaurant, you should be […]

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