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Pussy Grabs Back

Pussy Grabs Back

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | What was in the bowl slid down my throat. It entered my mouth feeling exactly as though I was being fucked. I’m not making this up: this was a rare occasion on which it was hard to tell which set of lips something was entering. Moist, small bits of lobster, butternut […]

Organizing for Sustainable Food

Organizing for Sustainable Food

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | The queerest thing about last week’s James Beard Foundation conference in Manhattan was the ginormous photograph of a brown-black human turd, pictured underneath a similar-looking red sausage. The photo was displayed on a huge screen by public policy academic Raj Patel, who announced to the assembled corporate honchos, entrepreneurs, and bland […]

Affordable Caviar — No, Seriously

Affordable Caviar — No, Seriously

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | There is a dish you can eat in a cellar in Brooklyn that is a work of art, and also soulful. It costs $12, and will fill you up. That dish is Mekelburg’s salt-baked potato with crème fraîche, black caviar, and smoked black cod. You may think it’s not for you because […]

Extra Butter, Extra Sugar

Extra Butter, Extra Sugar

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | Is there something gay about the wild visual and tactile fantasies at play in dessert-making? “Of course, it’s a gay sensibility! We don’t say it in public anymore, but fuck them, of course it’s a gay sensibility!,” said Ron Ben-Israel, one of the most elite wedding-cake makers in America and the queerest […]

Getting Fancy

Getting Fancy

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | The words “fancy food” make my heart swell, for better or worse. In 1970, “fancy food” is what we called it when my father got a gift basket from his boss full of special jams, cheeses that weren’t Kraft Singles, and chocolates that were not from Hershey. That basket thrilled me. […]

Pleasures That Cannot Be Bought

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | One of the main things our movement is about is pleasure. The right to pleasure — the goodness and innocence of all pleasure that hurts no one — is what we, more than anyone else in our time (and perhaps any time), assert and defend. In honor of Pride, this is a […]

The Revolution Will Not Be Consumed at Smorgasburg

The Revolution Will Not Be Consumed at Smorgasburg

  BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | Under normal circumstances, my reaction to the news that a new artisanal food hall had opened in the city might be rage. In the extraordinarily beautiful river park next to Battery Park City, new kids in town Le District and Hudson Eats are revoltingly overpriced and offensively underwhelming. ($15 for bad, […]

Fantasy Encounters with Dessert

Fantasy Encounters with Dessert

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | Fantasy plays an enormous role in eating. But in the realm of pastry it is off the charts. At Cronut creator Dominique Ansel’s two bakeries in Manhattan, I saw a pastry made of sesame and cherry imitating a Japanese paper crane. I saw another confection made to look and taste like a […]

Dirt Candy’s False Choice

Dirt Candy’s False Choice

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | After eating at Amanda Cohen’s expensive restaurant, Dirt Candy, I felt light, as though I had just done colonoscopy prep. If you’ve never done this, you feel like an anorexic who not only starves herself of food, but also uses laxatives for that ultimate feeling of the-light-going-through-you perfect emptiness. The feeling was […]

Farm to Sandwich

Farm to Sandwich

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | I got debauched with a piece of scrambled egg today. I didn’t expect to, but it was there, in between some ricotta and focaccia at Saltie. Some oozed out on my face ultra-creamily, and I didn’t feel disgusted, I felt exalted. I thought of my friend the poet Michael Broder’s wonderful essay in […]

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