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A Refuge Too Long Overlooked

A Refuge Too Long Overlooked

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | Two months ago I moved out of the city. That is a string of words I never thought I would put together. I was born here and I grew up in the fully-colored, art- and rebellion-bursting ‘70s, before each neighborhood had a sickening timestamp inked on it “ONLY FOR THE SUPERRICH […]

The Mash-Up of Appetite and Desire

The Mash-Up of Appetite and Desire

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | It was the last day of the Fancy Food Show, and every attendee was frantically scooping up free Italian sodas, chips, organic diced tomatoes, caramels, ginger tea premixed with kilos of sugar, and little French éclairs. I was one; my life had turned into an episode of “Supermarket Sweep,” and like the […]

Luscious Sights, Smells Now Joined By Tastes

Luscious Sights, Smells Now Joined By Tastes

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | There is nothing like rifling someone’s hair under white cherry blossoms. Or gazing at tall black-purple tulips while someone puts their arm around you and pulls you close enough to smell their spicy traditional cologne. That is why there is no single better spot for a date in all of New York City […]

How To Cook a Trump

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | I have to say, it’s hard to write about how good food tastes when Trump is compiling weekly lists of “crimes” by immigrants. I wanted to describe for you the precise degree of crispness and umami of the chicken thigh/ fermented soybean/ potato chip appetizer at the hot new Williamsburg restaurant […]

Cooking Up Rebellion

Cooking Up Rebellion

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | In times of trouble, cooking makes me whole. I may be tired, irritable, I may have gotten home late, I may even be sick, but I stand at my fry pan tossing in onions, that base of almost every culture’s cooking. To me, it might as well be the base of […]

Pussy Grabs Back

Pussy Grabs Back

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | What was in the bowl slid down my throat. It entered my mouth feeling exactly as though I was being fucked. I’m not making this up: this was a rare occasion on which it was hard to tell which set of lips something was entering. Moist, small bits of lobster, butternut […]

Organizing for Sustainable Food

Organizing for Sustainable Food

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | The queerest thing about last week’s James Beard Foundation conference in Manhattan was the ginormous photograph of a brown-black human turd, pictured underneath a similar-looking red sausage. The photo was displayed on a huge screen by public policy academic Raj Patel, who announced to the assembled corporate honchos, entrepreneurs, and bland […]

Affordable Caviar — No, Seriously

Affordable Caviar — No, Seriously

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | There is a dish you can eat in a cellar in Brooklyn that is a work of art, and also soulful. It costs $12, and will fill you up. That dish is Mekelburg’s salt-baked potato with crème fraîche, black caviar, and smoked black cod. You may think it’s not for you because […]

Extra Butter, Extra Sugar

Extra Butter, Extra Sugar

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | Is there something gay about the wild visual and tactile fantasies at play in dessert-making? “Of course, it’s a gay sensibility! We don’t say it in public anymore, but fuck them, of course it’s a gay sensibility!,” said Ron Ben-Israel, one of the most elite wedding-cake makers in America and the queerest […]

Getting Fancy

Getting Fancy

BY DONNA MINKOWITZ | The words “fancy food” make my heart swell, for better or worse. In 1970, “fancy food” is what we called it when my father got a gift basket from his boss full of special jams, cheeses that weren’t Kraft Singles, and chocolates that were not from Hershey. That basket thrilled me. […]

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